Picture this: you’re at a flea market, and you spot a piece of jewellery that stops you in your tracks. It’s intricate, heavy with history, and unmistakably old. The dealer calls it "Victorian," and your mind instantly conjures images of stern women in black dresses, wearing jet bead necklaces to mourn a lost love.
I’m here to tell you that image is only half the story. Actually, it's more like one chapter.
Forget what you think you know. Victorian jewellery isn't a single style; it's a 64-year-long saga of love, loss, discovery, and rebellion, told in gold, gemstones, and symbolism. As a collector, I’ve held these pieces in my hands and felt the history they carry. It’s time we moved past the mourning cliché and dug into the real, glittering heart of the era.
The Queen’s Life, The Nation’s Jewellery Box
Queen Victoria’s reign was a rollercoaster, and fashion—especially jewellery—was along for the ride. To make sense of it all, we break it into three acts, just like a play.
Act I: The Romantic Period (1837-1860) – All Hearts and Flowers
This was the era of young love. Victoria ascended the throne at 18 and was head-over-heels for her Albert. The public ate it up, and jewellery became the primary language of romance.
- The Vibe: Think less "tragic widow" and more "instagramming her engagement ring." It was all about public displays of affection.
- The Must-Have Motifs: Serpents: This is the big one. Victoria’s own engagement ring was a serpent coiled around an emerald. Forget creepy; it meant eternity and wisdom. A snake biting its tail? That’s an Ouroboros, symbolising a love with no beginning and no end. Flowers, Flowers, Everywhere: But these weren't just pretty decorations. This was the "Language of Flowers" in full swing. A ring with ivy meant fidelity. A brooch with forget-me-nots was a literal plea to be remembered.
- The Materials: Rich, low-karat yellow gold was king. The gemstones were deeply symbolic: Turquoise for prosperity, Pearls for tears of joy, Coral was carved into intricate hands and worn to ward off evil (the Victorian equivalent of an evil-eye bracelet).
- The Secret Messages: My personal favourite is the acrostic jewellery. Imagine a ring where the first letter of each gemstone spells a word. A famous example is the "REGARD" ring: Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby, Diamond. It was a secret love note, worn right there on your finger for all to see, but for only one to understand.
Act II: The Grand Period (1861-1885) – When Darkness and Discovery Collided
Then, in 1861, Prince Albert died. The music stopped. The Queen put on her black dresses and rarely took them off. This is where the mourning stereotype comes from, and it's true—the public followed suit, and mourning rituals became strict and elaborate.
The Mourning Rules: It wasn't just about wearing black. There were stages. First stage was deep mourning, where only jet—a fossilized wood that could be polished to a deep, light-absorbing black—was acceptable. After a set period, you could move to half-mourning, where you could introduce dark colours like grey, lavender, and even white. This is when you’d see pieces featuring pearls (symbolising tears) and amethyst.
But Wait, There's a Plot Twist! At the exact same time, the world was going crazy for archaeology. Discoveries in Egypt, Greece, and Etruria were splashed across the newspapers. So, while one half of society was wearing sombre jet, the other was going wild for archaeological revival pieces.
I’ve seen pieces from this era that are mind-bending: a heavy, gold Etruscan-style bracelet with intricate granulation, sitting right next to a stark, polished jet brooch. It was an era of wild contradiction.
Act III: The Aesthetic Period (1885-1901) – A Sigh of Relief
By the 1880s, people were getting tired of the heaviness—both emotional and stylistic. The Aesthetic Movement came along with its mantra of "art for art's sake." It was a rebellion.
- The Vibe: Lighter, more delicate, and just... prettier. The crushing weight of public mourning began to lift.
- The New Influences: Trade with Japan opened up, and suddenly you see motifs like delicate cranes, fans, and insects like dragonflies. Designs became more asymmetrical and naturalistic.
- The Look: This is where we see the first hints of the Edwardian era. Silver and platinum started being used for a lighter look. Delicate diamond star and crescent moon brooches became the rage. The "dog collar" necklace—a tight choker often made of multiple strands of pearls or gems—became the signature style of the fashionable set.
The Stuff You Can Actually Look For: A Collector's Guide
Okay, enough history. Let's get practical. How do you spot this stuff?
1. The Locket: The Victorian Smartphone
This was their most personal item. It wasn't just for a photo. It held a lock of a lover's hair, a tiny painted portrait, or even a kiss—a glass compartment with the imprints of lips. I always check the inside of a locket first; you never know what secret it might still be holding.
2. Hair Work: The Ultimate Keepsake
This freaks some people out, but I find it incredibly moving. Before it was used for mourning, hair jewellery was a token of the living. Lovers exchanged bracelets woven from each other's hair. It was the most intimate gift imaginable—a literal piece of yourself.
3. The Metal and The Marks
- Gold: Early Victorian gold is often a warm, buttery 15k or 9k. Get a loupe (a little jeweller's magnifier) and look for hallmarks inside rings or on clasps.
- The Trombone Clasp: This is a dead giveaway for a Victorian bracelet. It's a little box with a sliding tube that looks, well, like a trombone slide.
- The Gemstones: Look for Rose Cut diamonds—they're flat on the bottom and domed on top, like a rosebud. They have a soft, romantic glimmer, not the laser-like sparkle of modern cuts. Also, many stones were foil-backed to make them sparkle more in candlelight. If a stone is set in a closed-back setting, it's a great sign of age.
Wearing It Now: No Corset Required
The best part? This jewellery is incredibly wearable today.
- Layer that Locket: Don't let it sit alone. Take a delicate Victorian gold locket and layer it with your modern, minimalist chains. The contrast is killer.
- Brooch, But Not Boring: Pin a sentimental crescent moon brooch to your jeans jacket, or use a large, floral piece to secure a scarf. It instantly adds a story.
- Stack the Bracelets: Mix a Victorian gold bangle with your contemporary leather wrap or a sleek metal cuff. The mix of eras is what makes your style uniquely yours.
The Final Word
So, the next time you hear "Victorian jewellery," I hope you see more than just black. You'll see the secret romantic language of a young queen, the dramatic clash of grief and discovery in a rapidly changing world, and the delicate sigh of relief as a new century dawned.
It's not just jewellery. It's a 100-year-old love letter, a piece of history you can hold in your hand. And honestly, what could be cooler than that?