The Ultimate Guide to Aquamarine Stones: Your Complete Handbook to Blue Gem Perfection

Ever wondered why aquamarine jewellery feels so special? There's something magical about that ocean-blue sparkle that seems to capture light and imagination in equal measure. If you're considering aquamarine for your next jewellery piece – maybe an engagement ring, a birthday gift, or just a treat for yourself – you'll want to know exactly what you're looking at.

Let me walk you through the different types of aquamarine stones you'll find on the market today. I've spent years in the jewellery trade, and I still catch my breath when a particularly stunning aquamarine comes across my desk.

Wait – Aren't All Aquamarines Basically the Same?

This is the most common question I get, and the answer might surprise you. Not even close. The colour variations alone would fill a painter's palette, and where the stone comes from makes a world of difference to its character and value.

Here's the insider knowledge you need before you buy:

The Brazilian Royalty: Santa Maria Aquamarine

Picture the deepest part of the Mediterranean Sea on a cloudless day. That's Santa Maria aquamarine. Named after the legendary Santa Maria de Itabira mine in Brazil (which sadly doesn't produce much these days), this name now describes any aquamarine with that signature deep, saturated blue colour.

• What you're looking for: An intense blue without any grey or green hints. The colour should feel rich and velvety.
• The jewellery sweet spot: Because of its drama, Santa Maria aquamarine makes a breathtaking centre stone. Think engagement rings that make people stop and stare, or a pendant that becomes an instant heirloom.
• One thing to know: True top-grade Santa Maria is rare. If the price seems too good to be true, it probably is.
• The Everyday Stunner: Espirito Santo Aquamarine

Now imagine a clear summer sky just after sunrise. That's the softer, more gentle blue of the Espirito Santo aquamarine, named for the Brazilian state where it's found. This is probably the aquamarine you see most often in high-street jewellers, and for good reason.

• What you're looking for: A clean, luminous light-to-medium blue. It's less about saturation and more about that beautiful, transparent glow.
• The jewellery sweet spot: Its lighter tone makes it incredibly versatile. It's perfect for earrings that catch the light with every turn of your head, or for tennis bracelets where you want a consistent, sparkling line of blue.
• My professional tip: This is often the best value. You get exceptional clarity and size for your budget, and the colour is universally flattering.

The Pure Performer: Mozambique Aquamarine

African aquamarines, particularly from Mozambique, have changed the game in the last 20 years. They tend to have a very pure, vibrant blue colour – think tropical lagoon – and they often come in larger, cleaner crystals.

• What you're looking for: A clear, saturated blue that doesn't veer into green territory. They're known for their excellent transparency.
• The jewellery sweet spot: Want a big, bold cocktail ring or a statement necklace without a sky-high price? Mozambique aquamarine is your friend. The availability of larger stones makes it ideal for designer pieces.
• Why it matters: The consistency from this region is excellent, so you know what you're getting.

The Collector's Choice: Maxixe Aquamarine

Here's where things get interesting. Maxixe (pronounced ma-she-she) is a deep, denim-blue aquamarine that is naturally radioactive. This gives it an astonishing colour, but there's a catch.

• What you're looking for: An intensely dark, almost inky blue. It's strikingly different from any other aquamarine.
• The big 'but': The colour is famously unstable. It will fade to a pale brown or colourless if exposed to too much sunlight. Seriously – keep it in the box.
• The jewellery sweet spot: Purely for collectors. You might find it in vintage jewellery. For an everyday piece you want to wear, choose a different type.

The Question Everyone Asks: "Does Colour Really Affect the Price?"

In one word: absolutely. And it's the most important factor.

The trade uses a simple scale: the purer and more intense the blue, the more valuable the stone. A large, pale stone will often cost less than a smaller, more richly coloured one. It's all about that colour saturation.

A quick colour guide:

• Pale Blue: Lovely and affordable. The classic "aqua" colour.
• Medium Blue: The sweet spot for many. Good colour, good value.
• Vivid Blue (like Santa Maria): Premium price. This is the top-tier colour.
• Greenish Blue: Less valuable. The pure blue is always the goal.

Cut, Clarity, and Care – The Other Essentials

The Cut: A good cutter is an artist. They'll shape the raw crystal to maximise both the colour you see face-up and the brilliant sparkle. A poorly cut stone can make even a great colour look dull.

The Clarity: Aquamarine is known for being a "eye-clean" gemstone. You should aim for a stone with no visible inclusions to the naked eye. Flaws can drag down the value and beauty.

Looking After Your Treasure: Aquamarine is a 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs hardness scale, making it durable enough for daily wear (like in a ring). But be sensible: take it off for gardening, the gym, or washing up. Clean it with warm, soapy water and a soft brush. Simple.

So, Which Aquamarine is Right for You?

• For an engagement ring or major investment piece: Hunt for a well-cut Santa Maria or deep Mozambique blue. Prioritise colour intensity.
• For a beautiful, wearable everyday piece: You can't go wrong with a lovely Espirito Santo. You'll get more size for your budget.
• For a unique, designer-looking item: Use the larger sizes available from Mozambique to make a bold statement.

The best advice I can give you? Look at stones in person if you can. See how the colour changes in different lights – from sunny windows to evening restaurants. Your perfect blue is out there.

Found this guide useful? Explore our collection of hand-selected aquamarine jewellery, where every stone is chosen for its exceptional colour and life. [Browse our Aquamarine Rings, Necklaces & Earrings here].